Fashion & Heritage

Lily Gladstone’s historic Oscar gowns, celebrating Native heritage, go on display in D.C.

The National Museum of the American Indian will exhibit the dresses, a collaboration with Mohawk/Cree/Comanche artist Joe Big Mountain, starting February 28

Doug Peters/PA Images via Getty Images

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Two custom-designed gowns worn by Oscar-nominated actress Lily Gladstone (Siksikaitsitapi [Blackfeet]/Nimiipuu [Nez Perce]) at the 96th Academy Awards and subsequent Vanity Fair party will be exhibited at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of the American Indian in Washington, D.C. The display, titled “Making a Statement,” opens February 28 and runs through March 2026, with related public programs planned for March 2025.

The gowns represent a groundbreaking collaboration between luxury fashion house Gucci and Indigenous artist Joe Big Mountain (Mohawk/Cree/Comanche) of Ironhorse Quillwork. Gladstone, the first Native American nominated for Best Actress for her role in “Killers of the Flower Moon,” wore the gowns on March 10, 2024.

Midnight-blue velvet gown with porcupine-quill neckline and cape with quilled floral details, 2024 Velvet cloth, dyed and natural porcupine quills, sterling silver and silverplated beads, smoked deerhide. Gladstone wore this show-stopping gown during the 96th Academy Awards ceremony. The cape features 216 hand-quilled and beaded petals. Of the design, Gladstone lauded, “I can literally feel the love poured into each quill and bead—the dress is alive with it.”
Midnight-blue velvet gown with porcupine-quill neckline and cape with quilled floral details, 2024 Velvet cloth, dyed and natural porcupine quills, sterling silver and silverplated beads, smoked deerhide. Gladstone wore this show-stopping gown during the 96th Academy Awards ceremony. The cape features 216 hand-quilled and beaded petals. Of the design, Gladstone lauded, “I can literally feel the love poured into each quill and bead—the dress is alive with it.” / Mike Coppola/Getty Images Entertainment via Getty Images / Courtesy of Gucci, Joe Big Mountain of Ironhorse Quillwork, and Lily Gladstone

“Lily Gladstone has made it her hallmark to showcase Native designers at star-studded events,” said museum curator Anya Montiel. “The elegant designs mark the first Oscars collaboration between an Indigenous artist and a luxury fashion brand like Gucci.”

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One gown, a midnight-blue velvet creation worn during the Oscars ceremony, features a distinctive porcupine-quill neckline and a cape adorned with 216 hand-quilled and beaded petals. The second gown, worn to the Vanity Fair party, is a black corseted dress with chevron-patterned beaded fringe, a porcupine-quill neckline, and features 24-carat gold-plated beads, glass beads, and brass sequins.

Black corseted dress with chevron-patterned beaded fringe and porcupine-quill neckline, 2024 Embroidered silk cady, dyed and natural porcupine quills, 24K goldplated beads, glass beads, brass sequins and tacks. Gladstone changed into this glittering black dress for the Vanity Fair Oscars party. Quilled rosettes and blue mountain motifs accent the quillwork neckline.
Black corseted dress with chevron-patterned beaded fringe and porcupine-quill neckline, 2024 Embroidered silk cady, dyed and natural porcupine quills, 24K goldplated beads, glass beads, brass sequins and tacks. Gladstone changed into this glittering black dress for the Vanity Fair Oscars party. Quilled rosettes and blue mountain motifs accent the quillwork neckline. / Doug Peters/PA Images via Getty Images / Courtesy of Gucci, Joe Big Mountain of Ironhorse Quillwork, and Lily Gladstone

Both gowns showcase intricate porcupine quillwork, a traditional Native art form unique to North America. The collaboration ensured the protection of Indigenous knowledge, with the quillwork completed exclusively by Big Mountain and his team of Native artists.

Detailed image by Smithsonian Imaging Services, DPO/ODT
Detailed image by Smithsonian Imaging Services, DPO/ODT

The National Museum of the American Indian, with locations in New York City and Washington, D.C., works with Native peoples to promote understanding of their cultures and advocate for equity and social justice.

Public Programs at the National Museum of the American Indian

Indigenous Couture and Style

Friday, March 14, 7 p.m. National Museum of the American Indian, Washington, D.C. Rasmuson Theater

The museum hosts an evening of conversation with quillwork artist Joe Big Mountain (Mohawk/Cree/Comanche) and Sunshine Big Mountain (Oneida Nation) of Ironhorse Quillwork and fashion designer and celebrity stylist Jason Rembert. Vogue fashion and style writer Christian Allaire (Ojibwe) moderates. The event is free, but tickets are required to guarantee a seat in the theater.

Indigenous Fashion Showcase

Saturday, March 15, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. National Museum of the American Indian, Washington, D.C. Potomac Atrium

Indigenous fashion designers will unveil their latest works and demonstrate their craft. Visitors can enjoy a one-of-a-kind fashion showcase, meet the designers and purchase their unique works. Designers include Dorothy Grant (Haida); Joe Big Mountain (Mohawk/Cree/Comanche); Lauren Good Day (Arikara/Hidatsa/Blackfeet/Plains Cree); and Bethany Yellowtail (Apsáalooke [Crow/Absaroke]/Northern Tsitsistas/Suhtai [Cheyenne]).

Curator Tour: “Making a Statement”

Saturday, March 15, 11 a.m. National Museum of the American Indian, Washington, D.C. Third floor

Curator Anya Montiel (Mestiza/Tohono O’odham descent) will offer a close look at the museum’s special installation “Making a Statement” featuring the custom Gucci gowns worn by actress Lily Gladstone (Siksikaitsitapi [Blackfeet]/Nimiipuu [Nez Perce]) at the 96th Academy Awards.

Women’s History Month: Stories and Conversation on Indigenous Design

Saturday, March 15, 1 p.m. National Museum of the American Indian, Washington, D.C. Rasmuson Theater

Visitors can celebrate groundbreaking designers whose inspiring creations challenge the boundaries of fashion and expand perceptions of American Indian cultures. The designers will reflect on their personal inspirations and motivations for styling and creating clothing and accessories for women. Featuring Dorothy Grant (Haida); Joe Big Mountain (Mohawk/Cree/Comanche) of Ironhorse Quillwork; Jontay Kahm (Plains Cree); Bethany Yellowtail (Apsáalooke [Crow/Absaroke]/Northern Tsitsistas/Suhtai [Cheyenne]); and Lauren Good Day (Arikara/Hidatsa/Blackfeet/Plains Cree). Vogue fashion and style writer Christian Allaire (Ojibwe) moderates.

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